I no longer use this dashcam due to it being unreliable after 1 year of use. Constantly stopped recording and the head unit not working.
And so it begins!
The weekend has arrived and now it is time to dismantle the bike.
Tools required – 5/6mm allen keys, PH2 screw driver, 10mm socket.
First job is to plan where the cameras will reside and then the cable routes. I know I want to put the main unit in the small recess in the front storage where the manual should live.
At the front of the bike there isn’t anywhere flat. So I’m going to use the Sugru stuff to mold a blob to fix the camera to the beak.
So the back has a similar issue with regards to siting the camera, in addition we need to route the cable through somewhere. After removing the maintenance cover from inside the frunk we can see the battery and there are plenty of ways to get the cables back.
There are no open holes large enough to get the cables back into the recess so we are going to need to do some drilling.
Now let’s start taking things to pieces. Removed the seat. Now the grab rails need to go to get the rear fender off.
The fender has a screw each side under the wheel arch plus another push connector on top. Once those are removed the fender pops away from the body and finally slides back to remove from the bike. Then we can remove the pillion seat and the brake light unit opening the area that I’ll drill through for the rear camera cable
My beloved Dremel – attached with a grout grinding bit which allows me to drill a hole in most things and then widen the hole as the shaft is abrasive. The head of the USB cable for the camera is rectangular.
So that is the final position for the rear camera. The unit comes with a load of sticky pads to clip the cables into to keep them safe. I’m using more Sugru here to form a level surface for the camera to sit on. Once I’m happy with the position I’ll smooth the putty so it doesn’t look like a blob of gum!
Looks like a gaping hole with just the small round cable through it now. I’ll clean off the burr and apply a bead of silicone around it to seal the ingress.
The next job is to route the cable back down the side of the fuel tank in between to cowl and into the battery compartment. Here I’ve removed the side cowl which is one screw, a pull out and slide forward.
It is fairly easy to route the cables and cable tie them to the tubular frame.
Another blob of Sugru ready for a new life on the front beak.
Squash it down and get the camera lined up. It helps to route the cable through to the battery compartment and plug it into the unit to see where the cameras are pointing.
It takes the Sugru 24 hours to fully cure so that gives plenty of time to get the positioning of the camera right without having to rush the job.
Whilst that is curing we need to fit the other two components, the GPS/Speaker unit and the push button.
There is a square bit of plastic that is probably for a GPS mount or something that is calling to have the button put on it.
OK done. Next is the GPS:
Coincidentally, the texture of the GPS unit is almost identical to the trim of the Honda. My secondary spot would have been the inside of the frunk lid as I doubt the plastic would have obscured the signal but I didn’t really want the cable inside moving around everytime I opened the lid.
Now all the parts have been fitted into the right positions I now need the Sugru to cure and confirm the cameras are solidly in place. Obviously I don’t want them coming off mid ride. The cables need to be tied up to the frame with ties.
I’ve put a 128GB MicroSD card from Amazon into the unit and checked that it can obtain a good lock for GPS.
I’m just awaiting the Neutrino power distribution unit to get through customs before wiring everything up.
Sat 4th June – Eventually had to go and pick the Neutrino up from the post office as they neglected to deliver it to me. Installed the Neutrino here and then wired the power from the K1 into it in about 2 minutes. Then I must have spent 2 hours screwing around with the wires. Many wires that were too long. I ended up placing the DVR on the maintenance lid itself – I figured that I’d be drilling a big hole for all those cables and it would be much simpler to replace the lid in the future rather than drilling the frunk itself.
In the end this worked out just fine. After putting the tool kit in the place where the manual should go in the bottom, I could even use the rubber strap to hold the unit it. To be honest I’ll probably fit the plastic bracket to the back and take the DVR out of the fabric case. The other lead hanging down is the USB socket from the Neutrino box.
Here is a quick video of the unit starting up and automatically beginning recording after turning the ignition on.